Lmp1 Style Custom Wheel




“The document states that “optical radiation detected by the retina impacts an individual’s behavior, psychology, and perception of the environment.”

What is being talked here is that the LED light on the eye retina is bad for health! The LEDs on this wheel are so intense, as they are configured, that sickness can be felt after the first minute. 

Keep this in mind when using yours too bright.

On The wheel


The rim is a Sparco P104 replica,



the box on top of the wheel is a rectangular plastic (ABS) one,




the board that holds the little multicolored buttons the display and the leds its a generic board that holds a Tm1638 chip.




the Leds on the 1638 board are 5mm, 3.2V, Pink. It´s an arduino Nano to connect all this apparatus.



There´s a singular push button on the wheel and  it´s a NKK MB2011 with a GB13B guard.

The board inside the BOX




I desoldered the default leds and buttons. It was then used the 5mm pink leds and longer push buttons. With longer push buttons i could fit the colored caps (photo above).


You can connect this board to the arduino nano in the same manner as in the project of DiY Shift Light and Display for Sim Racing

As in here, below


I use this wheel on one of my G27´s and it works fine. Can´t show a picture because i have none.

You can make different arrangements with the DX SLI Manager software regarding the displays and Leds configuration.

Converging shift lights is an example



On closing…

This was a  quick made project. It came as a solution for a display on the wheel and it turned out just fine, with room for the full degree of rotation of the wheel, 900º.

As this was a project that was almost all built in my garage, extreme attention to tolerances in measurements on the cutting of the box was not taken into account.

A reminder is that it can be used in other wheels because the software runs independent of the wheel.

More information can be found on my video.

Custom Wheel


See you soon on the next project.

Bibliographical References for LEDs Studies.





Brass Optical Encoder for Logitech G27

xin chào?” (“Hello” in Vietnamese)

This gadget is an optical encoder, a upgrade feature for the Logitech G27 wheel. They are also known as code wheels.

It helps in the centering of the wheel; Logitech G25, G27 and Driving Force GT have them.

The configuration of this item is different on each model but they do the same function.

This particular optical encoder model, with 60 slot, is for old Logitech G27´s, the one´s with the Green Box.

The 60 slot fits all  G25´s and old Driving Force GT.

30 slot fit the new Logitech G27, blue box package, and the new Driving Force Gt.

Let´s dive in…

My video on how to change the optical encoder on a Logitech G27.

(As soon as i post the video on the CM Laser optical encoder i will delete this line. The video is being prepared and will take a few weeks).

Go to the agent´s website fot this optical encoder.



These are laser cut. They are custom made and available from CM Laser.

 The provider has sent me one optical encoder, that i am in the process of testing, and my initial thought was that it made me use my Logitech G27 more. I have less the feeling of being worried about breaking something when turning the wheel  very fast from one side to the other, when to catch a slide and so on.

 It is very possible. you know, to crack a optical encoder from turning the wheel constantly from one side to the other very quickly.

There are a few mods for repairing and upgrading them.

Below is a common one.

Thin and small washer in the inside of a default optical encoder from a Logitech G27.

A crack can be seen on this optical encoder. It comes from the center to the outer edge.

This is one option..

Plastic Optical encoder (default one)


washer + glued + optical encoder.

Another option is to use a brass optical encoder


There are steps that should be followed to ensure a correct installation. The first rule should be that this brass optical encode should always stay closer to the black receiver than the default one.


It will have to stay even closer of the black receiver of the wheel than the default optical encoder does.


“Even closer than the default optical encoder on the picture”


Red cross marks the “black receiver”

Matters about this brass Optical encoder…


Sometimes this brass optical encoders do not fit the metal shaft exactly. In this case use  sand paper on the internal part to sand off a bit of material.  Check my YouTube channel for a video on that.

The provider´s website has the information needed to this procedure.

In a few steps it´s something like the following:

If it is too tight, use a little high-grit sandpaper on a toothpick to gently remove a little bit of metal inside the encoder, and try to fit it on.  It must be a tight fit, but shouldn’t require a jack-hammer to get it on.  Gentle push with your finger should do the trick.  Patience, Grasshopper, patience!”


Thoughts on the subject:

It seems to me that the wheel recenters more precisely after turning or catching the wheel from a spin: Let me give you an example; if your going flat out on a  RwD (rear wheel drive) road car…, and there´s an “S” ahead ,  with a right curve and a thigh left curve: when going from the right curve to the left the tail of the car is already loose, let´s assume, and when you start the left curve you will probably use all the road on the exit with the rear of the car already sideways. It is in that moment that i feel the re-centering of the Logitech Wheel more precise! After catching the slide and control it.

What happens is that my left hand always knows where the wheel is going to be, after a spin or a tail loss. Usually i have to readjust the hand position after catching the wheel. In this case, with the new optical encoder, i tend to think the wheel is more times in the right place for me to grab it after a spin.

On Gaming

I have been testing the wheel on and on on Project Cars.  I have tested Assetto Corsa, Rfactor 2 and Race 07. By default, Project Cars is the most “setting friendly” in my experience. I plug the wheel and overall the force feedback is decent, with the settings at a friendly rate not requiring a lot of tweaking. The other 3 games are more demanding regarding tweaking, when a wheel is connected for the first time.

CM Laser Codewheel


This is one of those items where there is no wrong to go ahead with it, to implement it. It´s a win-win situation. I would personally want to have all the internals of my G27 upgraded!

Good Things to Expect

  • Gets the job done,
  • Never again will there be a need for a new optical encoder.
  • Average price of the piece: 38$.
  • Good Customer Support.

Logitech G27 3rd Version


Logitech G27 Pcb Cables (PH 2.0mm 4 Pin)


The availability of hardware is important! This post will be  about the cables used to connect buttons or switches to the Logitech G27 board.


Use them if you want to customize or change something on your wheel. If you want to keep the default buttons (and so, not cut the default wires) you should use this.


The little cables connect the default board (above picture) to 2 little boards where the 6 default buttons are soldered. The red items are caps for the pressure buttons inside.


The cables we are addressing are known as PH 2.0mm 4 Pin and can be found here.


The PH 2.0mm 4 Pin cables.


50 of these cables cost around 12€ but any number of trades can be made.

  • Why the need for these cables?

– Well, the default ones are very thin and if one wants to build more than one custom wheel to use, this solves that problem.

  • Is that the only place to buy them?

-No. These PH 2.0mm 4 Pin can be found online or even at physical stores near you.

  • Will these cables fit G25?

– I don´t think so. I have not tested on a G25.

Thank you for reading this,



Rat Project Logitech G27

Welcome back. I hope you’re having a good week!

This project was based on a Rat approach and for that i used  one of my G27´s. The objective was to use parts i already owned.

Being so, i had a 5″ LCD, a Shift Light Indicator (SLI-M), 10mm Led´s, push buttons and the cover of a box (front cover of Button Box V1).


I will start right now: This may impact some viewers…


Top plastic cut off and front grill* removed. (* bottom of page)

Next: The top part at the shop to clear some edges.




The usual nécessaire for soldering!



After soldering the buttons i need to try them to check connections and cable length.


The first idea was to have 8 push buttons and 1 (5 mm) LED  in the center to light up when “pit limiter” was ON.


But i have to remember the reader: The SLI-M is the one controlling all the push buttons and LEDs. All the other parts are dependent from where this unit is placed. This SLI-M has the ability to plug up to 16 push buttons and 5 extra LEDs.


I decided to use 2, 10mm LEDs, 1 Red and 1 Blue to signalize different options, and ditched the 1 centered 5mm LED.


The Blue one would light up when “pit limiter” is ON. The Red one when vehicle is damaged. I have assigned the buttons below the Leds to functions related with pit entry, exit and vehicle damage although they can be used to other functions.


I used the outer case of two push buttons to make the case for the LEDs.



The LEDs would fit perfectly.

SLI-M  (Discontinued)



  • It is advisable to have jumper wires to connect components to this board. Male to female or female to female. You choose witch fits best. They are not expensive.


Used material until now:

  • 12 mm push buttons,
  • 1 Shift Light Indicator,
  • 10 mm LEDs




This LCD is a  5 inch HDMI with a resolution of 800 x 480 and resistive touchscreen.
A Raspberry Pi 2 can be connected directly to this LCD but it can also be used as a 2nd or 3rd monitor via HDMI. In this case i am using a HDMI to mini DisplayPort Cable and a mini usb to power it on.


The black outer case is made of acrylic and can be found online.


The Software being run;

I tested some available software; below is IRDDU 2.


Z1 Software below;


All software runs as expected fitting the monitor well, with some minor adjustments to one or the other.

My singular choice is the Z1 Dashboard Software. I have been testing IRDDU 2 with this LCD but Z1 has been given attention, detail and work for it to run as it does.


Running with the shift light indicator (SLI-M), controlling the LEDs and push buttons was Fanaleds.


This is the front panel on the  Logitech G27 and it is similar to the front of the Shelby Cobra Gt500 2013, almost exactly. img_20161010_181947


Before this Project;


The temperatures in the country i live in get really high and this summer i noticed that during a 2h race the wheel was not responding as it “should”. The plastic above the motors was really hot, so… .


Unused fan and an old Nokia charger, stripped the wires, solder them and i have a fan to plug into the wall socket.

Well, it was not a scientific test but it made the plastic a lot cooler.



This is it people…

Until next time!


Lights Off

AKAI MPD32 “Button Box”

Who would have guessed; you have to hit things to make music…

I present a new project a little different.

I have a Akai MPD 32, a Midi Pad Control Unit designed to make music beats,  compose songs, etc. For video reference see my YouTube .


The aim is to use it as a controller/button box for all the functions of racing games. Example: assigning Traction Control On / Off or increase /decrease, adjust Field of View, ABS, Replay of gameplay and so on.

It was tested with iRacing, Assetto Corsa, Race 07 and BeamNg and worked fantastically with iRacing and BeamNg. Assetto and Race 07 have a hard time with keyboard converters.

“What is this?”

If you connect the Mpd 32 directly to the pc via usb it would just power it on and no input in game is visible. It needs a emulator (software converter) for it to work. GlovePie takes care of that. (Search google)

This Mpd 32 unit has 16 pads in 4 pad banks; 16 pads on bank A, 16 pads on bank B, 16 pads on C and 16 on D. This makes it possible to have 64 simulated buttons.vlcsnap-error511

 GlovePie Software Emulator


iRacing in background – GlovePie and then the script

I downloaded GlovePie then launched it and plugged the Mpd to the pc.

One thing: the emulator needs a script to work; a code for converting the pads into signals; in this case convert the pads into keyboard inputs.

I found this on the web: Piano Midi Keyboard script, thank you to Niveks and associates for the code.

When GlovePie opened, i copied & pasted the script onto the emulator front page. Then clicked “Run” on GlovePie and launched the desired game.


iRacing configuration

This script is a piano keyboard script so only the pads are working on the Mpd . Knobs and extra buttons are not functional in game at the moment. I´ll update you when i have good news.

 Step process:

  • Download GlovePie
  • Have a script
  • Launch GlovePie
  • Connect Mpd 32 to Pc
  • Paste script on GlovePie
  • Press “Run” on GlovePie
  • Launch Game

The test went well with iRacing, being possible to assign 64 buttons ( 16 pads x 4 pad banks).

Working on Iracing


 “Field of View” adjusment


“Black Box” selection

 Assetto Corsa


It worked on Assetto Corsa but not very well! When assigning the pads to specific functions (ex. Traction Control (TC)) the game got all confused, displaying sometimes more than one function when pressing a pad. This has happened before with the Button Box V1 “the cheap version”  when i tried to connect it to Assetto Corsa. Possibly due to the fact that the game starts by recognizing two keyboard inputs and does not prioritize any of the two. Confirm my video to get an idea.

(Speculation) I am using a default keyboard plus this emulator that converts pad signals into keyboard letters, characters and numbers so possibly doubling the information that gets to the game.


It is a big project to make all the knobs and keys working in game but i will do it if it is indeed possible.

Please, have a nice day!

Led Flags

For this project the concept was that i wanted something i could see well when racing, big enough to bypass the idea of “toy”and small enough to fit on top of a second monitor.

This is a custom project for use in simulation. I´m starting;


I have bought 3 white electrical junction boxes and these fit all together making them a  solid piece, so there is no need for glues.

The next part was painting the interior of each box. Because they are white, the led light would not give the desired effect, so they were painted black. The color black would not help in the propagation of the light but would tend to give the observer the idea of a concentrated point of light. Then i masked the interior of the boxes with aluminum foil, the one used to stick temperature sensors on computer cases. This would provide the desired refraction of light and magnify the LEDs light effect.IMG_20160712_181415


Aluminum Foil


Aluminum Foil (back side/ sticky side)

Covering the interior of the boxes was easy, as well as painting them. Keep the nose of the paint can at 15-25 cm and make steady passes. I applied acrylic coat to all the boxes after the first process.


Aluminum foil on 1 side of the box (interior)

This project was a exploratory attempt to check the viability of such work. It´s pretty evident that the holes on the boxes were man made; i used a not so professional way to cut the plastic and make a hole to fit the 10mm LED’s. 

Preparing the LEDs


Specs: 10mm, 5v, ultra bright.

Easy to set up: The longer leg of the led is the positive one, the shorter one is the negative.


Heating the heat shrink sleeve

After all done, i had to connect the LEDs to a source of power and assign them what to do and when to do it. Well, i connect them to a Shift Light Indicator (SLI-M).

These units (SLIs) are prepared to control LEDs in game, almost any game (racing related). Five (5) extra LEDs can be connected to this unit; any size as long they are up to 4v.


Cudos for photo to  eksimracing.com


Traffic Lights on top of TV

 Front cover: 2mm opaque acrylic, 1 piece.


Sorry about the “not centered photo”

These traffic lights can be used as shift light indicator, simulate different flags in a race, give feedback about damage, etc. All the functions associated with the LEDs are from the Fanaleds software.  These options can be assigned to external LEDs.

You can find a video of this software on the channel: Here.


I am almost done…, just like to share some pictures more.


Height from Lights to cockpit


Thoughts and functionality

Makes the session fun, each time i use the traffic lights, it helps visually with the information and reminds me of how simple things can get. It´s easy to use, it´s always connected to the SLI, the SLI it´s always connected to the pc so, no need for plug extra usb connections.

The yellow led is the most dim, not so bright as the green and the red one. They are all from the same supplier and package.



Questions and/or ideas please contact me.

DiY Shift Light and Display for Sim Racing


I will do my best to explain the building of this project. It is a simple one, with 3  main physical components;

  • An Arduino nano board
  • a TM1638 led board
  • a mini usb cable, depending on the Arduino you use.

The cassette makes part of the overall aesthetics, so not important item in the function of the Display and Leds.


There is a need for a piece of software and i will refer to it later in the post.

Let´s say you have the materials to start the building process; you should have in your hand a TM1638 board and a Arduino nano / Uno / Leonardo. Obs: For this to fit the cassette case it had to be done with the arduino nano, due to its small size. It can either be used an Arduino Uno or Leonardo. It is my knowledge this will function correctly with these boards.

Nano Tm1638 done

This is an Arduino nano, arduino nano This is a TM1638 Board, IMG_20160303_165935

Connecting the TM1638 board to the Arduino, (most important part)

  • The TM1638 Display has on its board labeled “DIO” (data pin), “CLK” (clock pin), “STB0″(strobe pin 0), “VCC” and “GND”.
  • The Arduino has labeled on the board “8”, “9”, “7”, “5V” and “GND”.

As is showing in the above picture, you connect “DIO” to “8”, “CLK” to “9” , “STB0” to “7”, etc.

Here is an example of a connector that can be used,

jumpers arduino

Jumpers for e.g. Arduino


TM1638 Shift Light Project

The last part is the software. For this i have made a short video to present it. Here!

On the video you will find a software that is easy to use comparing it to the DX SLI Manager software from the original video, available too, on my Youtube channel.

The same hardware process but using DX SLI Manager.

For this post i have another software (batrako). The difference between these two software options is that DX SLI Manager is highly costumizable and there´s only the need to check boxes to change settings but its iRacing only!

This software , however, just needs a code in the Arduino and launch the software. It is customizable too but demands knowledge about programming. The information displayed on the code is very evident and easy to give an idea of what each line on the code does but still, it´s not like checking boxes to make changes. So this second version of software can run on Pcars, Assetto Corsa, iRacing, rFactor 1 and rFactor 2.


For this all to work, as pointed and shown in the short video, you need Arduino software IDE. If you encounter any problem with this software you will have to do your homework. When set up correctly this software runs perfectly.

3 bits of information more,

here is another Shift Light project using an Arduino Leonardo,


It can run the same software; batrako and DX SLI.



Summer is warm…Subscribe on Youtube!

This is it, fellas. Catch me next time, here or there.