Top Sim Racing Cockpits on Profile Aluminum

7 SimRacing Cockpits from 4 Brands

Presentation on standard cockpits as they are sold.

I have bunched some rigs and made a presentation as short as possible.

 


Heusinkveld – Sim Rig GT

The most expensive from the ones listed, but with a twist. It´s fully equipped! It comes with almost all the parts one wants. A steering wheel bracket,  a pedal baseplate and heel bracket, a monitor mount and VESA brackets (triple screen support), shifter and handbrake bracket, seat and feet Brackets. Can handle any gear that one can attach to it. Superb Rig!

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Heusinkveld – Sim Rig GT

 

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Heusinkveld – Sim Rig GT

 

L135-1 (1)

Heusinkveld – Sim Rig GT


JCL To Be Faster – Black To Be Faster V2

The Black To Be Faster V2 from JCL is one of the more robust cockpits, visually appealing and can handle any powerful wheel and pedals on the market. Top plain rig.


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Black To Be Faster V2

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JCL Black To Be Faster V2

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JCL Black To Be Faster V2

The Black To Be Faster V2  is one good cockpit but, at its price point, one might consider the SIMLAB´s P1.

Remember,  black finish cockpits are always more expensive… if the system was not disturbed by a sale or something.


SIMLAB – P1

One of the best looking cockpits on the market. Robust and can handle any powerful wheel and pedals. This is the top of the line from SIMLAB, now with a black version.

Fantasy rig.

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SIMLAB P1

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SIMLAB P1


Custom Cockpits

Another brand that shows attention to detail. The top of the line is the KR135 Evo.  Any powerful wheel and pedal set can be attached to this unit.


Custom Cockpits – KR135 Evo

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KR135 Evo

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KR135 Evo


SIM LAB – GT1

GT1, from SIMLAB.  A solid piece with good adaptability for the pedals and wheel base. With a nice look this unit sits well on this presentation. Can handle any wheel and pedal set on the market.

Solid rig.

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SIMLAB GT1 (photo 1)

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SIMLAB GT1 (photo 2)

 

 


JCL To Be Faster – JCL Seat

JCL Seat it´s JCL To Be Faster entry-level cockpit. Similar to the GT Cup, the base model from SIMLAB, i would say this one is closer to the SIMLAB´s GT1 then it is from the CUP. This is a simple, clean look cockpit that can handle most of the wheels on the market.

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JCL Seat


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JCL Seat

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JCL Seat


SIM LAB – GT Cup

The entry level cockpit from SIMLAB with simple mounting options and can be improved over time. Good adaptability for the wheel but not recomended to use a powerfull wheel or pedals on this one. It might handle it, but will reverberate.

Watch out rig!

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SIMLAB – GT CUP

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SIMLAB – GT CUP


Other Points… 

The presentation follows the order below with all the links;

Heusinkveld – Sim Rig GT

JCL To Be Faster – JCL Seat  Black To Be Faster V2

SIMLAB – P1

SIMLAB – GT1

Custom Cockpits.com – KR135 EVO

JCL To Be Faster – JCL SEAT

SIMLAB – GT CUP.

Now on the models of each house

HeusinkveldSim Rig GT

SIM LABGT Cup, GT1, P1.

Custom Cockpits.com – Cockpit KS90Cockpit KR135 CUPKR135 EVO.

 JCL To Be FasterBlack To Be Faster V2JCL SEATGeko & F1.

Well i hope you had a good time. I think next post will be on…or maybe not.

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Lmp1 Style Custom Wheel

Volante

A WORD OF CAUTION

QUOTE:

“The document states that “optical radiation detected by the retina impacts an individual’s behavior, psychology, and perception of the environment.”

What is being talked here is that the LED light on the eye retina is bad for health! The LEDs on this wheel are so intense, as they are configured, that sickness can be felt after the first minute. 

Keep this in mind when using yours too bright.


On The wheel

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The rim is a Sparco P104 replica,

 

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the box on top of the wheel is a rectangular plastic (ABS) one,

 

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the board that holds the little multicolored buttons the display and the leds its a generic board that holds a Tm1638 chip.

 

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the Leds on the 1638 board are 5mm, 3.2V, Pink. It´s an arduino Nano to connect all this apparatus.

 

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There´s a singular push button on the wheel and  it´s a NKK MB2011 with a GB13B guard.


The board inside the BOX

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I desoldered the default leds and buttons. It was then used the 5mm pink leds and longer push buttons. With longer push buttons i could fit the colored caps (photo above).

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You can connect this board to the arduino nano in the same manner as in the project of DiY Shift Light and Display for Sim Racing

As in here, below

TM1638 DONE

I use this wheel on one of my G27´s and it works fine. Can´t show a picture because i have none.

You can make different arrangements with the DX SLI Manager software regarding the displays and Leds configuration.

Converging shift lights is an example

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On closing…

This was a  quick made project. It came as a solution for a display on the wheel and it turned out just fine, with room for the full degree of rotation of the wheel, 900º.

As this was a project that was almost all built in my garage, extreme attention to tolerances in measurements on the cutting of the box was not taken into account.

A reminder is that it can be used in other wheels because the software runs independent of the wheel.

More information can be found on my video.

Custom Wheel

 

See you soon on the next project.


Bibliographical References for LEDs Studies.

 

http://www.ledsmagazine.com/articles/2010/11/light-and-human-health-led-risks-highlighted.html

http://ieeexplore.ieee.org/abstract/document/5618050/

The Pro Shift Board

Visit my Youtube channel!

This is Pro Shift
by SymProjects

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What it does…

You can connect LEDS to it, any size and shape, and it will make them flash when a car is revving, when a car is out of fuel or when damage is present. There are lots of possibilities here

It can command up to 16 leds and 8 push buttons. The dimensions are 66mm x 33mm, it powers itself by USB so it doesn’t require any external power supply.


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Connecting LEDs and Push Buttons

In the picture can be seen the numbers “1” – “3” – “5”…”15″ : That´s the positive row for Leds and where the longer pin/ leg of the leds are connected.

The numbers “2” – “4” -“6″…”16” are the negative pins, where the short leg from the LED connects.

The “B1” to “B8” are the inputs for the push buttons.

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 LEDs and their Types

Type 5050 LEDS below, RGB ones

 

Some common LED sizes and types are; 3mm, 5mm, 10mm, hat type and rounds. The characteristic for all of these to work properly with this board is that they should be up to 4V.

There is the possibility this board can work with other voltages but with the one´s i have tested with 3,2V everything worked as it should/ as expected.

Options for the use of the leds

For Traction Control, Pit request, Hand brake, Turn lights or Fuel level,  Engine temperature, Neutral gear, Rev. Counter, Water temperature or Oil pressure.

Also, through the software the LEDs when connected to this board can be used as blue, red and yellow flags.

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The Software

http://www.symprojects.com/downloads

 

 

Software is easy to set up. The device is automatically detected by Windows as an USB Game Controller, so no extra steps needed.

This is the Pro Shift available at www.SymProjects.com

If you want to connect 8 push buttons the firmware of the board should be updated. Please read.

Bits of handy information: When the brightness is set to 100% the LEDs receive a 15mA current. Each LED can be configured to blink at three different speeds when switched on. More than one Pro Shift controllers can be connected at the same time. This board works on a large number of titles, here is a list of games and available functions: Docs

Brass Optical Encoder for Logitech G27

xin chào?” (“Hello” in Vietnamese)

This gadget is an optical encoder, a upgrade feature for the Logitech G27 wheel. They are also known as code wheels.

It helps in the centering of the wheel; Logitech G25, G27 and Driving Force GT have them.

The configuration of this item is different on each model but they do the same function.

This particular optical encoder model, with 60 slot, is for old Logitech G27´s, the one´s with the Green Box.

The 60 slot fits all  G25´s and old Driving Force GT.

30 slot fit the new Logitech G27, blue box package, and the new Driving Force Gt.

Let´s dive in…

My video on how to change the optical encoder on a Logitech G27.

(As soon as i post the video on the CM Laser optical encoder i will delete this line. The video is being prepared and will take a few weeks).

Go to the agent´s website fot this optical encoder.

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These are laser cut. They are custom made and available from CM Laser.


 The provider has sent me one optical encoder, that i am in the process of testing, and my initial thought was that it made me use my Logitech G27 more. I have less the feeling of being worried about breaking something when turning the wheel  very fast from one side to the other, when to catch a slide and so on.

 It is very possible. you know, to crack a optical encoder from turning the wheel constantly from one side to the other very quickly.


There are a few mods for repairing and upgrading them.

Below is a common one.

Thin and small washer in the inside of a default optical encoder from a Logitech G27.

A crack can be seen on this optical encoder. It comes from the center to the outer edge.

This is one option..


Plastic Optical encoder (default one)

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washer + glued + optical encoder.


Another option is to use a brass optical encoder

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There are steps that should be followed to ensure a correct installation. The first rule should be that this brass optical encode should always stay closer to the black receiver than the default one.

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It will have to stay even closer of the black receiver of the wheel than the default optical encoder does.

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“Even closer than the default optical encoder on the picture”

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Red cross marks the “black receiver”

Matters about this brass Optical encoder…

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Sometimes this brass optical encoders do not fit the metal shaft exactly. In this case use  sand paper on the internal part to sand off a bit of material.  Check my YouTube channel for a video on that.

The provider´s website has the information needed to this procedure.

In a few steps it´s something like the following:

If it is too tight, use a little high-grit sandpaper on a toothpick to gently remove a little bit of metal inside the encoder, and try to fit it on.  It must be a tight fit, but shouldn’t require a jack-hammer to get it on.  Gentle push with your finger should do the trick.  Patience, Grasshopper, patience!”

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Thoughts on the subject:

It seems to me that the wheel recenters more precisely after turning or catching the wheel from a spin: Let me give you an example; if your going flat out on a  RwD (rear wheel drive) road car…, and there´s an “S” ahead ,  with a right curve and a thigh left curve: when going from the right curve to the left the tail of the car is already loose, let´s assume, and when you start the left curve you will probably use all the road on the exit with the rear of the car already sideways. It is in that moment that i feel the re-centering of the Logitech Wheel more precise! After catching the slide and control it.

What happens is that my left hand always knows where the wheel is going to be, after a spin or a tail loss. Usually i have to readjust the hand position after catching the wheel. In this case, with the new optical encoder, i tend to think the wheel is more times in the right place for me to grab it after a spin.


On Gaming

I have been testing the wheel on and on on Project Cars.  I have tested Assetto Corsa, Rfactor 2 and Race 07. By default, Project Cars is the most “setting friendly” in my experience. I plug the wheel and overall the force feedback is decent, with the settings at a friendly rate not requiring a lot of tweaking. The other 3 games are more demanding regarding tweaking, when a wheel is connected for the first time.

CM Laser Codewheel


Closing…

This is one of those items where there is no wrong to go ahead with it, to implement it. It´s a win-win situation. I would personally want to have all the internals of my G27 upgraded!

Good Things to Expect

  • Gets the job done,
  • Never again will there be a need for a new optical encoder.
  • Average price of the piece: 38$.
  • Good Customer Support.

Logitech G27 3rd Version

 

Heated Foot Warmer

Sain baina uu?” (“Hello” in Mongol)

I have a HOT topic today: This is an Ergonomic Heated Foot Warmer.

The device connects to a wall socket and works as a heater for the feet.

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With this version, shoes can be used. It has 3 levels of heat Minimum, Medium and Maximum.

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It also works as a 1 hour option and shuts itself off after that time.

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The version on the photo has some bumps so that  you can massage the feet.

The main surface is a plastic material as in the main body. The whole unit is very light.

Next is…

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 Ergonomic shape with a wide area for the feet,  with elevated sides to keep the feet inside the warmed area.

Low electrical consumption:  36W-40W.

 RoHS compliant, that means: Restriction of Certain Hazardous Substances like Lead (Pb), Mercury (Hg) and other 8 substances.

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When Gaming

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For people who sit at a desk for gaming the foot warmer is great, helping them in warming their bodies.

For people that use cockpits is awesome too, as it provides heat for at least a foot when driving. We should agree that cars with sequential gearboxes make the foot a lot warmer!

Let´s remember that in the winter metal pedals can get really cold after a while!

 Closing Post…!

  1.  Amazing product for people who spend a lot of time on the computer and have their feet on the ground.
  2. Almost no need for another type of heater in the room.
  3. Around 30€/ 32$.
  4. Easy to clean.
  5. No deformities detected from heat.
  6. Using a blanket on your lap can help keep the knees warm.

–  This was my best buy from the last couple of years. –

See you soon!

 

Logitech MoMo Racing Wheel

Hallo! (“Hello” in Norwegian)

Today we have a one of a kind. A brand new Logitech MoMo racing wheel. It´s somewhat rare to see one out of the box.

Let´s check this

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Humm, that smell to brand new!


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The steering wheel is rubberized all around.

6 buttonsshift paddles and a sequential shifter.

240 degrees of rotation.

Force feedback.

No hard mounting for the base.

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Lift to reach table clamps!

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The sequential shifter works on the right side or the left side of the wheel.

Unscrew the nut and change the side.

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Leds can be used as shift lights…and

Left LED:

On = The wheel is receiving power from the AC Adapter.
Off = The wheel is not receiving power from the AC Adapter.

Right LED:

On = The wheel is in a force feedback game.
Off = The wheel is not in a force feedback game.


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No hard mounting for pedals. They have a decent weight and the known Logitech spikes to better grab carpets.

Decent pedals. Short throw of both accelerator and brake.

The brake has almost no resistance. For people that are used to more heavy duty brakes they will have to be gentle.

Plastic all around.


The user manualimg_20161214_160144

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Closing Post…!

  • Force feedback is there.
  • Sequential Shifter can be placed on one side or the other
  • Steering wheel feels nice. Rubberized.
  • Nice materials (with solid construction)

Perfect for younger audiences. You have a 5 or 6 year old nephew? This is it!

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Disabling Assetto Corsa Proximity Indicators

Disabling Assetto Corsa Proximity Indicators

Hello there!

The “proximity indicators” are a visual aid for awareness. They indicate  where other cars are and where they are going. This Assetto Corsa  feature  is usually very useful.

On this post i will be addressing  a way to disable this option.

The steps are simple. Below are images and text to guide you.

Go!

These little red arrows/ triangles

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Proximity indicators shown in red arros

The Start:

Find the root where your game is installed: Mine is located at D:\

C:\ or D:\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg – in cfg Search for  “proximity_indicator” .

Right click on proximity_indicator » click on”edit” » change value 0 to 1. Save it!

Close the window. Check in game!


Below is the same procedure but with images

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steam-apps2

common3

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system5

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The file is asking: Hide=? 1 = yes / 0 = no

Turn the value to 1.

Save it!

Done.


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I´ll meet with you again!